Calatrava Amagnetic Ref. 3417A

PATEK PHILIPPE, REF. 3417A, AMAGNETIC, STEEL, SECOND SERIES

ICONEEK price: SOLD

Iconeek is very proud to introduce here a rare and highly attractive stainless steel anti-magnetic wristwatch: Reference 3417 Amagnetic. Reference 3417 was launched in 1958 and ceased around 1970. It was Patek Philippe’s first “Anti-Magnetic” or « Amagnetic » wristwatch made in series and available only cased in inox stainless steel. Following in the footsteps of antimagnetic reference 3417, the reference 2570/1 was introduced in 1958 and produced in yellow gold. “Amagnetic” watches were designed for use in areas of high electro-magnetic fields such as in laboratories or electro-engineering. At the time of its introduction, the “Amagnetic” feature was a sign of excellence and consequently mentioned on the dial. The model was originally designed to withstand up to 450 oersteds of magnetic strength, in other words, more than four times the level of magnetism needed to stop a standard watch. This watch would have belong to the PPAR « Patek Philippe Advance Research » department of the 1960s, being the only « Scientific Calatrava » model ever produced. Stainless steel is an amagnetic material with a very low permeability to magnetism. Thanks to the two soft iron caps snap on each other, the movement is highly protected in a magnetic shielding.

The first series were fitted with a cal. 12 AM 400 movement, as of 1960, the calibre 27 AM 400 was used until the models’ discontinuation. Made and sold in 1961, the present watch is from the second series, using a caliber 27-AM-400 movement. Both series were fitted with a gold or beryllium lever escapement and covered by a soft iron (permalum) cap. The amagnetic calibre 27-AM 400 was launched in 1960 and is an improved version of the 1958 calibre 12”’400, fitted now with a Gyromax balance and free sprung self-compensation Breguet overcoil hairspring.

Reference 3417 is furthermore illustrated and described in Patek Philippe Amagnetic, ref. 3417, by MStanga, 2015, Patek Philippe Steel Watches by John Goldberger, pp. 342-349, Patek Philippe – The Authorized Biography, Nicholas Foulkes, 2016, pp. 212-215.

The present model comes with a two-body construction: a water-resistant stainless steel round case with downturned lapidated straight lugs, screwed case back. Protected on each sides (front and back) by two amagnetic capsules in Permalun (soft iron), the movement is a caliber 27-AM400, AM standing for Amagnetic. The caliber 27-AM400 can be considered as the most advanced manual winding movement in the Patek Philippe catalog. Stamped twice with the Seal of Geneva, the caliber is rhodium plated, with 18 jewels, a gold pallet fork, a gold Gyromax balance, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, Durochrome escape wheel, shock-absorbers. Cal. 27-AM 400was produced with serial numbers ranging from 730’000 to 735’239 & 739’700 to 739’799, the movement was 26.75 mm. diameter and 4 mm. high. Cal. 27-AM 400 is in fact a modified version to amagnetic with chronometer specs  of the caliber famous manual winding cal. 12’’400. Under the plexyglass crystal, we find a mint condition silvered dial with applied with gold Baton indexes and Arabic 12, white gold Baton hands, large subsidiary second, outer minute division, Amagnetic signature, raised enameled Patek Philippe signature. Dial, case and movement are signed.

The present watch is accompanied by a Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming the manufacture of the present watch in 1961 and its subsequent sale on September 5th, 1961. Consigned by a private collector, the present ref. 3417A has never been offered in public before and is preserved in extremely good and original overall condition. The watch  is further coming with its original steel buckle, from Wenger manufacturer, without PPCo signature, a characteristic of the ones produced in the 1950s.

Among the most famous amagnetic models such as the Rolex Milgauss, IWC Ingenieur, JLC Geophysic, the Patek Philippe Amagnetic was the most elegant and luxury one ever produced at the time. With exceptional finishing to the case, the dial and the movement, this Calatrava is a must have for any discerning collectors and furthermore one of the most interesting « time-only » wristwatch produced by Patek in the end of the 1950s.

A 1960s « P.P.A.R » wristwatch !!

Condition: 9/10, some signs of wear in places, unpolished case, original finish, mint dial, superbly preserved movement, in working condition, PP strap is new.